Japan is one of the smallish number of countries with a strong tradition and style of knife making. If you are used to German / Western style knives, there is a whole different world of Japanese knives. Though Western style knives are popular — and you will find many Western style chefs knives in stores, especially department stores — the rabbit hole goes so much deeper in Japanese knives. I’m a bit of a collector and love to embrace the things that are unique in places I visit so when I went to Japan I set out to get a few knives that are unique to this tradition. This is a guide synthesizing what I’ve learned across several trips, and buying a number of knives. Starting with (some of!) the kinds of knives you’ll encounter, different materials, and places to actually go shopping, including a few that are quite off the beaten path.
Knife types
Traditional Japanese knife shapes tend to be more specialized compared to the all-purpose Western chef’s knife. When digging into this, it seemed like there was basically a knife for every conceivable task. And a bit of vocabulary the Japanese word for knife is written as 包丁 and is pronounced hōchō or bōchō in some compound words. This list of knife types isn’t exhaustive1, but here are some of the traditional shapes.
The traditional three
In traditional kitchens, these three knives were the ones that were used. For most cooks, these aren’t all that practical since they are relatively limited in their application. And I was even talked out of buying these in at least one shop since they aren’t what a Western cook is looking for. But I did ultimately get one of each of these, and use them all from time to time, and it is a treat each time I do!
Usuba (薄刃) Single-beveled, thinner, and sharper for precision vegetable work. There is also a double-beveled version with the same shape called a Nakiri. The Usuba is slightly harder to maintain than the Nakiri, and takes some getting used to, but makes slicing even large vegetables thinly a joy. This might not be for everyone, but I chop cabbage for slaw often enough that I reach for my Usuba frequently.
Deba (出刃) A thick, heavy knife for butchering fish and breaking down poultry. The spine is thick enough to chop through small bones. Single-beveled. Typically 150–210mm. Probably not necessary unless you’re regularly dealing with whole fish.
Yanagiba (柳刃) The long, slender sashimi knife. Designed to slice fish in a single drawing stroke, which produces a clean cut that doesn’t compress or tear the flesh. Typically 240–300mm and single-beveled. It is typically only used on fish that has already been filleted (e.g. with a Deba).
Other varieties
Santoku (三徳) The name means “three virtues,” referring to its suitability for fish, meat, and vegetables. This is the closest Japanese equivalent to an all-purpose chef’s knife and the most practical starting point for most home cooks. Typically 160–180mm, double-beveled, and widely available.
Gyūtō (牛刀) The Japanese take on a Western chef’s knife. The name literally means “cow sword,” reflecting its origins as a butcher’s tool. Compared to the Santoku it has a longer, more pointed blade and a slight curve that makes it better for rocking cuts. Also double-beveled.
Nakiri (菜切り) A vegetable knife with a straight, rectangular blade and blunt tip. Double-beveled. Great for push-cuts through vegetables but not great for most anything else. Similar in shape to an Usuba, but with a double-bevel instead of a single bevel.
Kiritsuke (切付) A traditional multi-purpose knife used by head chefs, with a distinctive angled tip. Traditionally single-beveled; double-beveled versions exist but are technically a different knife. The single-bevel version requires significant skill to use well.
Honesuki (骨透き) A pointed, stiff-bladed knife for breaking down poultry. Smaller and more precise than a Deba. Single beveled.
Menkiri (麺切り) A tall, rectangular knife for cutting noodles like soba and udon. A very specialized tool, but if you make noodles at home, or like the look of a massive square of steel, this is the knife for you.
Single bevel vs. double bevel
What is this single bevel vs double bevel all about? This is one of the biggest structural distinctions in Japanese knives.
A double-bevel blade (ryōba, 両刃) is ground on both sides to form a V-shape, like nearly all Western knives. These are symmetrical, easier to sharpen, and work equally well in either hand. The Santoku, Gyūtō, and Nakiri are all double-beveled.
A single-bevel blade (kataba, 片刃) is ground on only one side — the other side is flat or very slightly hollow. The result is more of a wedge cross-section. This allows for an extremely acute cutting edge and gives the cook precise control over where the cut goes. The flat back also helps the knife release food cleanly. The Usuba, Yanagiba, Deba, and traditional Kiritsuke are all single-beveled.
Single-bevel knives are capable of more precise cuts — a sushi chef’s thin, clean slices through fish are from a Yanagiba. But single-bevel knives are harder to sharpen, require more learning and technique to use accurately, and are almost always made for right-handed use. Left-handed single-bevel knives exist but are rarer (and probably pricier). Unless you already have some experience with Japanese knives, starting with double-bevel is the sensible move. Or if you’re a sucker for a learning project (like me). I don’t regret getting any of my single bevels, though they took a bit of work to get used to.
Steel
The steel type matters at least as much as the knife shape, and it’s the main thing that will drive both the price and your maintenance burden.
Carbon steel: Shiro-kō and Ao-kō
Traditional Japanese knives are made from high-carbon steel, which comes in two main families:
Shiro-kō (白鋼, “white steel”) is a very pure high-carbon steel. It gets razor-sharp more easily than almost anything else, but the edge doesn’t hold as long, and the blade is more brittle — prone to chipping if you’re not careful.
- White #1 The purest and most reactive. Sharpest of all, most brittle, shortest edge retention.
- White #2 Slightly more forgiving. Still gets very sharp, more commonly available, and the typical recommendation for first carbon steel knives.
Ao-kō (青鋼, “blue steel”) has chromium and tungsten added, which gives it better edge retention at some cost to peak sharpness.
- Blue #1 Very sharp, holds an edge longer than white steel, somewhat less brittle.
- Blue #2 The most balanced option in the blue steels. Excellent edge retention, durable, still gets genuinely sharp. Many experienced cooks consider this the sweet spot.
- Super Blue Adds vanadium for even longer edge retention. Hardest to sharpen of the group.
In summary: white steel is sharper out of the box and easier to get back to sharp, but needs more frequent sharpening and more careful use. Blue steel holds the edge longer and is more forgiving, but requires more skill to get fully sharp. For most purposes, White #2 or Blue #2 are sensible starting points.
| White #1 | White #2 | Blue #1 | Blue #2 | Super Blue | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peak sharpness | Sharpest | Very sharp | Sharp | Less sharp | Least sharp |
| Edge retention | Shortest | Short | Longer | Even longer | Longest |
| Brittleness | Most brittle | Less brittle | Forgiving | More forgiving | Most forgiving |
But, carbon steel has one major downside: it rusts. Quickly. Leave water on the blade and you’ll have rust spots before the meal is done. You need to wipe the blade dry immediately after use. Over time carbon steel develops a patina — a greyish layer of oxidation that actually protects the steel. There are two schools of thought: some treat the patina as a badge of use and honor, while others polish and oil their knives regularly to maintain the clean appearance.
Stainless steel
Most mass-market knives are stainless, meaning chromium has been added to resist rust. The trade-off is that stainless steel is softer and won’t hold as keen an edge as a good carbon steel. It’s much more forgiving to own, though — you can actually cook with it without paranoia. High-end stainless steels close much of the gap with carbon steel and are the dominant choice in modern Japanese knives sold to non-professional home cooks.
Knife storage + protection
Traditionally, knives are stored with wooden sheaths called saya (鞘). Some stores will include them, but it’s common that you would need to ask about it when you’re buying a knife. They are specific to the shape and length of the knife, so ask when you get the knife for best luck finding a fit.
Where to shop
Tōkyō: Kappabashi
Kappabashi (合羽橋) is Tōkyō’s kitchen-supply district, and a very good concentration of knife shops if you can only visit one area. It runs for about a kilometer in the Asakusa/Ueno area and has many shops. There are way more than this, but a few that I’ve been to:
Kama-Asa (釜浅商店) There are two storefronts, one dedicated to knives and the other more general cookware. They have a large selection and I remember the staff being happy to help. website map
Kamata (かまた) A nice dedicated knife shop with a long history. Another shop with a very wide selection. Look for the giant knife sign above the shop website map
Union Knives A smaller Tōkyō shop worth visiting. Many traditional styles. I’ve heard folks say the workers are a little gruff, but I had very pleasant interactions. I got an Usuba here that I really love — possibly my most used Japanese knife. website map
Kyōto
Though Kappabashi has a huge selection of stores, Kyōto has a few standouts, and I think they are even slightly nicer (and older) than the more commercial vibes of the Tōkyō stores. The Nishiki market has a number of knife stores, as well as a bunch of food vendors and even some food stalls. It’s worth a visit even if you’re not interested in cookware shopping.
Aritsugu (有次) One of the most famous knife makers in Japan, established in 1560. Originally made swords and armor for the imperial court. The Nishiki Market shop is a classic stop. Aritsugu makes knives in-house, engraves your name in kanji on the blade while you wait, and carries beautiful handles. Prices tend to be high but reflective of the craft. The market area is also very worth a visit and has a selection of other knife vendors. website map
Shigeharu (重春刃物店) The oldest knife shop in Kyōto with an excellent selection. It is a small operation, and I’ve heard that you might need to call ahead to make sure they are open. There’s a word/phrase senzen (戦前) meaning “before the war”. It is usually referring to World War II, but in Kyōto it can mean the Ōnin War (1467–1477), and this knife maker was founded before both. Cash only. map
Yagi Hōchōten (八木庖丁店) A bit of a walk from Nishiki market, but worth it. Many different knives, including some with spectacular designs. If you’re looking for a more interesting handle, this is the place to look. Also has a number of other metal products. website map
Ōsaka
Ōsaka has a number of knife shops, particularly in the Namba area on Dōguyasuji (道具屋筋) street. This market is much like Kappabashi where there are many restaurant supply stores, but there’s something about the way they are all laid out in a covered arcade that gives it a more industrial vibe. Or maybe it’s all of the giant pots stacked up in rows with narrow aisles that does it? The first two here are part of Dōguyasuji.
Jikkō Knives (實光) A big variety and more upscale. Have a variety of different designs, but tended to be pricier and more high end than other shops around. website map
Tokuzō Knives (徳蔵) A good selection of more traditional knives compared to Jikkō. website map
Genrihei Santō (源利平 山東) A well-regarded traditional shop slightly outside of Ōsaka (though not as far away as Sakai, which is a city known for knife production as well). This was handsdown my favorite knife shop. It’s in a residential area (don’t get freaked out that you seem to be walking into an apartment building, you are and also you are in the right place), but has so many knives to choose from. As is pretty common, you will select knife blanks and they will add handles for you. That can take a few hours, but you can also asked them to use a service like Yamato transport2 to send it to your hotel (I did, they were a little surprised I knew about it to suggest it, but were very very happy to oblige). If I go back to Japan, I absolutely will make my way back to here. website map
Tower Knives A bit outside of the restaurant shopping district, but worth checking out. When I visited there were many staff members helping people try out different knives, including a number of people very comfortable in English. I didn’t buy any knives here myself, but it was nice to try a few out when I was choosing. website map
Tsubame-Sanjō
This is a bit off the beaten path, but if you’re in Niigata, or you happen to be on the Jōetsu Shinkansen it is worth a stop. These two towns have a long history of metal work: starting with nails and then smoking pipes. Cooking knives are absolutely made here, but all kinds of metal implements are as well: chisels, shears, etc. There’s a small market with local metal works connected to the Tsubame-Sanjō Shinkansen station (map). There is a slightly larger market in town a bit (map), and a shockingly interesting local museum dedicated to metal work: Tsubame Industrial Materials Museum (燕市産業史料館). We spent an afternoon here somewhat by accident and it was one of the highlights of our trip. We even hammered small plates with a number of Ojīsan (grandpas).
A few other things to note
Bring your passport. Knives bought at knife shops can often be purchased tax-free for foreign visitors with a passport. Most tax free items will talk about showing them at the airport after security, but for knives everyone understands that those need to be checked. I’ve never had an issue with this.
Cash can get you a discount. Several shops will offer a small discount (5–10%) for cash purchases versus credit card.
Don’t panic about customs. Kitchen knives are ok to bring back to the US in checked luggage, of course. Wrap the blade thoroughly. A saya (wooden sheath), if your shop sells or makes them for the knife, is ideal — many will make one on the spot or while you wait.
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I didn’t even include the Octopus knife (Takobiki) in this list! ↩︎
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You are using Yamato’s TA-Q-BIN luggage forwarding service already, right? If not, you absolutely should. ↩︎